• What is the purpose of the tree? (e.g., shade, fruit, screen)
• What benefits do you want the tree to provide?
• What is the tree's 10-year profile (size and shape)?
• What is the climate zone where the tree is to be planted?
• What are the soil conditions?
• What is the sun and wind exposure?
• What is the trunk and branch wood strength?
• Does it have invasive roots?
• How quickly or slowly does the tree grow?
• Will there be a lot of litter from twigs, fruit, flowers or leaves?
• Is the tree susceptible to pests?
• Is the tree disease-resistant?

• How tall will the tree grow?
• How wide does the canopy spread?

Trees or shrubs that are planted under or near power lines should not grow above 25-feet-tall.  Tree trunks and branches should not reach within 10 feet of power lines when fully grown.

Before digging, call Underground Service Alert (USA) at 800-227-2600 to find out if there are underground pipes or electric lines in your planting area. In California, utilities will come out to your site free of charge, and mark the location of their facilities, provided they are notified about 48 hours in advance.) REMEMBER the "10-FOOT" rule — keep all trees, equipment and people at least 10 feet away from electric power lines! To eliminate possible contact between trees and overhead electric wires, only trees whose mature height and spread will not grow closer than 10 feet to the wires should be considered. A local arborist or tree supplier should be able to help suggest plant species that are appropriate to plant under power lines.
More details are available in SCE's "Right Tree, Right Place" brochure.

Planting Your Tree

• Remove and discard grass and weeds from the planting site. The hole should be 4 feet wide in the shape of a square or circle. Dig the hole 16 inches deep on the sides, but only 8 inches in the center to create a pedestal.
• Carefully remove the tree's rootball from its container, and using your hands, gently loosen any outside roots from the sides and bottom, taking care not to break or damage the rootball. All circling roots should be cut to prevent girdling.
• Place the tree in the center of the hole on the undisturbed pedestal so the root crown (where the trunk meets the roots) is about 1-1/2 to 2 inches above the surrounding ground level.
• Backfill the hole with the soil you removed (original soil). Discard any grass and weeds from the soil. Do not add soil amendments.
• Place the fertilizer tablets about 4 inches from the rootball approximately 4 inches deep in the soil.
• Finish backfilling the hole, but remember not to cover the top of the rootball, which is the root crown.
• Remove the nursery stake, if your tree came tied to one. If your tree is sturdy enough to hold itself upright, do not restake. If the tree needs help to stand upright, use two stakes and ties. Place the stakes on opposite sides of the tree, approximately 18 inches from the trunk. Each tie should be placed around the trunk and attached to a stake. Place the ties so the tree stands without leaning, but tie them loosely enough to allow for growth and movement. Periodically check the stakes and ties to ensure that they are not harming the trunk or branches. Usually the tree is able to stand alone within 1 year of planting and the stakes should be removed when the tree is stable.
• Water thoroughly right after planting to soak the planting area and settle the soil.
• Create a water basin around your newly planted tree. The basin should be at least 4 feet wide with an edge built up to at least 4 inches high. This serves to conserve water and direct moisture to the tree's rootball. In winter, break the berm down to avoid standing water, which could kill the tree.
• Spread mulch or wood chips about 6 inches deep over the entire planting area, leaving a bare 4 inch to 6 inch area directly around the trunk.
• Protect your trees from dogs, cats or other animals with chicken wire or fencing.